Nori seaweed in skincare: vitamins C, A and E, hydration and skin protection
When we think of Nori seaweed, our minds almost inevitably turn to sushi: the thin, dark leaves that wrap maki and temaki, that characteristic umami flavor, and Japanese cuisine.
We would hardly expect, however, to find it inside a cosmetic treatment.
Yet, hidden behind that thin, dark leaf is a wealth of substances that are also extremely interesting for the skin.
Algae of the Porphyra genus, historically associated with Nori and today partly classified under the Pyropia genus, contain numerous bioactive molecules: vitamins, polysaccharides, amino acids, proteins, pigments, carotenoids, phenolic compounds, and mycosporine-like amino acids, known as MAAs.
Among these, some of the most interesting components from a cosmetic perspective are precisely vitamins C, A and E, along with the numerous compounds with antioxidant activity and the polysaccharides characteristic of red algae.
There is also a particularly surprising fact.
Nori can contain more vitamin C than oranges by weight.
The content depends on the species and the conditions of the raw material, but particularly high values of vitamin C have been reported in Porphyra. This makes Nori a nutritionally very interesting raw material and, above all, introduces a molecule that we are also very familiar with in the world of skincare.
Vitamin C, in fact, contributes to protection against oxidative stress and is fundamental for the normal biosynthesis of collagen.
But that is not the only reason why Nori deserves attention.
The simultaneous presence of vitamin C, vitamin E, carotenoids and other antioxidant pigments, together with polysaccharides and MAAs, creates a particularly interesting profile for formulations intended for hydration, antioxidant protection, barrier maintenance, and countering the environmental factors involved in photo-aging.
It is from this world that the cosmetic interest in PRODHYDERM® PORPHYRA was born.
Porphyra: much more than a sushi ingredient
The term Nori commonly refers to various red algae used in food, belonging primarily to the Porphyra and Pyropia genera.
The taxonomy of these algae has been subject to various revisions, which is why different names may appear in scientific literature.
From a cosmetic point of view, what is of interest is not only the botanical name, but above all the molecular composition of the raw material.
Porphyra can contain:
- vitamin C;
- vitamin A and carotenoid precursors of vitamin A;
- vitamin E and other tocopherols;
- polysaccharides;
- amino acids;
- proteins and peptides;
- pigments;
- phenolic compounds;
- carotenoids;
- mycosporine-like amino acids.
This composition explains why red algae have become the subject of growing interest in cosmetic research.
It is not simply a natural ingredient.
It is a raw material that contains different families of molecules with different biological functions.
Vitamin C: a great concentrate
If there is one vitamin we immediately associate with skincare, it is vitamin C.
And Nori has a surprising characteristic: some species of Porphyra can have a particularly high vitamin C content.
Vitamin C is an important antioxidant and plays an essential role in the biosynthesis of collagen.
This is particularly interesting when we talk about mature or photo-exposed skin.
Collagen is, in fact, one of the main structural proteins of the dermis and contributes to the resistance and structure of the skin.
With age and chronic exposure to ultraviolet radiation, the metabolism of the extracellular matrix changes and collagen is progressively altered.
Vitamin C participates in the enzymatic reactions necessary for the formation and stabilization of collagen fibers.
For this reason, its presence represents an interesting characteristic of a raw material intended for anti-aging cosmetics.
But vitamin C also performs another fundamental function: it contributes to the protection of cells from oxidative stress.
And this is precisely where Nori becomes even more interesting.
Because vitamin C is not isolated.
It is accompanied by other antioxidant molecules.
Vitamin E: protecting skin lipids
Nori also contains vitamin E, another important component of the antioxidant system.
Vitamin E includes a family of fat-soluble compounds, including tocopherols.
Its most important characteristic is the ability to act within the lipid components of cell membranes, helping to protect them from oxidation processes.
This is particularly important for the skin because lipids are a fundamental component of its structure and barrier.
When lipids are subjected to oxidative processes, their function can be compromised.
Vitamin E therefore represents a particularly interesting component when talking about antioxidant protection and maintaining the integrity of skin lipid structures.
And it is interesting to observe how vitamin C and vitamin E are complementary.
The former is predominantly associated with the aqueous phase of biological systems, the latter with the lipid phase.
Together they are part of an antioxidant network much more complex than what one might imagine just by looking at the list of vitamins.
Vitamin A and carotenoids: the link to skin renewal
Another interesting component of Nori is represented by vitamin A and carotenoids.
Here it is important to distinguish between the different molecules.
Not all carotenoids are vitamin A and not all have the same biological activity.
Some carotenoids, however, can act as precursors to vitamin A, while others primarily perform antioxidant functions.
Vitamin A is fundamental for numerous biological processes of the skin, and its derivatives are among the most studied substances in cosmetic dermatology for their role in regulating cell differentiation and turnover.
Carotenoids, on the other hand, are also particularly interesting for their antioxidant capacity.
This means that the pigment component of Nori does not only represent what gives it its characteristic color.
It can contain molecules that are biologically interesting for protection against oxidative stress.
A true network of antioxidants
And it is precisely this combination that makes Nori interesting.
We do not have a single antioxidant substance.
We have a network of different molecules:
vitamin C + vitamin E + carotenoids + phenolic compounds + pigments + MAAs.
Each family possesses different characteristics.
Vitamin C is water-soluble and also participates in collagen biosynthesis.
Vitamin E is fat-soluble and primarily protects lipid components from oxidation.
Carotenoids can exert antioxidant activity and, in some cases, act as precursors to vitamin A.
Phenolic compounds contribute to the antioxidant properties of numerous plant and algal extracts.
MAAs add an even more particular element: the ability to absorb certain UV radiation, along with antioxidant activities studied in various experimental models.
Nori therefore becomes interesting not for a single "miracle ingredient," but for the complexity of its bioactive profile.
Polysaccharides: when Nori also becomes interesting for hydration
Vitamins and antioxidants represent only part of the story.
Red algae are particularly rich in polysaccharides, macromolecules that can possess a strong affinity for water.
This characteristic is very interesting in cosmetics.
Some polysaccharides can, in fact, contribute to the formation of hydrophilic films on the skin's surface and help maintain an environment more favorable to hydration.
Adequately hydrated skin generally appears smoother, softer, and more elastic.
Hydration can also visually attenuate the depth of fine lines linked to dehydration.
For this reason, marine polysaccharides are studied as cosmetic ingredients with moisturizing, film-forming and protective potential.
In the case of Porphyra, the presence of polysaccharides therefore represents another reason why these organisms are interesting for the formulation of treatments intended for dehydrated skin or skin subjected to environmental stress.
The skin barrier
Hydration is strictly linked to the quality of the skin barrier.
The stratum corneum must, in fact, maintain a balance between water and lipids to limit transepidermal water loss and maintain favorable conditions for skin homeostasis.
When the barrier is compromised, the skin can become drier, rougher, and less comfortable.
Hydrophilic polysaccharides can contribute, depending on their structure and the formulation, to the formation of a surface film and the maintenance of hydration.
For this reason, red algae extracts can be particularly interesting in formulas oriented towards comfort, hydration and support of the barrier function.
However, it is not necessary to attribute to a polysaccharide the same role as a ceramide or a physiological lipid.
These are different mechanisms.
And it is precisely this diversity that makes a formula combining different categories of active ingredients interesting.
MAAs: the natural defense system against radiation
We arrive at one of the most fascinating aspects of Porphyra.
Mycosporine-like amino acids, or MAAs, are small molecules present in numerous marine organisms.
They are particularly interesting because they possess structures capable of absorbing certain wavelengths of ultraviolet radiation.
Among the MAAs identified in Porphyra, we find porphyra-334 and shinorine.
These molecules have been studied not only for their ability to absorb UV, but also for their antioxidant properties and their interaction with cellular stress response systems.
A study on skin fibroblasts analyzed the action of porphyra-334 and shinorine on the Keap1-Nrf2 pathway, one of the main cellular systems involved in the antioxidant response.
Under experimental conditions of UV stress, these molecules showed activity associated with an increase in the cellular antioxidant response.
This is a particularly interesting fact because it directly links a biological characteristic of the algae to research on skin protection.
Porphyra and photo-aging
Photo-aging is one of the main culprits for visible skin aging.
UV radiation can increase oxidative stress and promote processes that alter the extracellular matrix, including the structures responsible for skin resistance and elasticity.
Among the protagonists of these processes, we find matrix metalloproteinases, or MMPs, enzymes involved in the degradation of extracellular matrix proteins.
Studies on Porphyra MAAs have therefore also analyzed these mechanisms.
In a murine model of photo-aging, MAAs obtained from Porphyra tenera, containing porphyra-334 and shinorine, were associated with a reduction in some markers linked to matrix degradation and better preservation of collagen fibers after exposure to UV rays.
This is a very interesting result for anti-aging research.
Because it means that the interest in these molecules is not limited to UV absorption: they are also being studied for their possible ability to modulate the biological consequences of photo-induced stress.
Antioxidation and environmental protection
The skin is not exposed only to UV rays.
Every day it comes into contact with an environment characterized by numerous stress factors: radiation, atmospheric pollutants and other oxidizing agents.
The reactive oxygen species generated by these factors can contribute to the oxidation of lipids, proteins and other cellular structures.
And this is precisely where a raw material rich in various antioxidant molecules becomes interesting.
Vitamin C, vitamin E, carotenoids, polyphenols and other molecules present in algae can contribute to the overall antioxidant activity of the extract.
The antioxidant activities of Porphyra extracts have been observed in various experimental models.
The combination of multiple molecular families therefore makes this raw material particularly interesting for formulations intended for the protection of skin subjected to daily environmental stress.
Porphyra and skin radiance
When we talk about antioxidants, vitamin C and protection from photo-stress, we also arrive at a very important aspect from a cosmetic point of view: radiance.
Skin subjected to environmental and photo-oxidative stress can appear progressively duller and less uniform.
Vitamin C has long been studied in cosmetics for its role in maintaining a brighter and more uniform skin appearance.
Furthermore, antioxidants contribute to counteracting the oxidative processes that can influence the overall quality of the skin.
For this reason, the Nori profile is particularly interesting in treatments aimed at skin that appears dull, stressed, dehydrated or photo-exposed.
It is not just an algae: it is a platform of bioactive molecules
At this point, it becomes easier to understand why Porphyra is so interesting for skincare.
We are not talking about a raw material that possesses only one function.
Nori brings together different categories of substances:
Vitamin C
Contributes to antioxidant protection and the normal biosynthesis of collagen.
Vitamin E
Contributes to the protection of lipid components from oxidative stress.
Vitamin A and carotenoids
Are involved in biological skin processes and, in the case of carotenoids, can contribute to antioxidant protection.
Polysaccharides
Are interesting for their ability to interact with water and for their potential moisturizing and film-forming role.
Polyphenols and pigments
Are studied for their antioxidant activities.
MAAs
Are particularly interesting for their ability to absorb certain UV radiation and for the antioxidant properties studied in different models.
It is this combination that makes Porphyra a particularly interesting raw material for advanced cosmetics.
And PRODHYDERM® PORPHYRA?
PRODHYDERM® PORPHYRA is born precisely from the cosmetic interest in this marine raw material.
Its value is not simply that of being able to say "it contains Nori."
Behind a cosmetic active ingredient, there is an extraction and selection technology that determines which components of the raw material are effectively concentrated or made available in the preparation.
For this reason, it is more correct to speak of a Porphyra-based cosmetic active ingredient rather than simple Nori seaweed.
The interest in the raw material includes precisely those characteristics we have seen:
hydration, polysaccharide component, antioxidant activity, vitamins, pigments and photoprotective molecules like MAAs.
The final result naturally depends on the type of extract and its concentration in the formulation.
And this is where the technical documentation of the active ingredient becomes fundamental.
How to recognize Porphyra in the INCI?
The word "Nori" does not necessarily appear on the packaging.
Depending on the species and the raw material used, designations such as Porphyra Umbilicalis Extract, Porphyra Yezoensis Extract or other related botanical names may appear in the INCI.
The INCI therefore allows for the recognition of the botanical origin of the ingredient, but it does not describe its entire profile on its own.
Two extracts obtained from algae belonging to the same group can in fact differ in species, extraction process, solvent, standardization and final composition.
To truly understand an active ingredient, it is therefore necessary to go beyond the simple botanical name and consider the technical documentation and studies carried out on the specific ingredient.
From the table to the laboratory
The journey of Nori from sushi to skincare is therefore much more interesting than it might seem.
A dark leaf that we know primarily for its food use contains a surprisingly complex composition.
Vitamin C, vitamin E, vitamin A and carotenoids.
Polysaccharides capable of interacting with water.
Pigments and phenolic compounds with antioxidant activity.
Mycosporine-like amino acids capable of absorbing UV radiation and subject to studies on protection against photo-induced stress.
It is precisely this combination that makes Porphyra such an interesting raw material.
Not because it is a miracle ingredient.
But because marine nature has developed a series of extremely sophisticated molecules to allow these organisms to live in an environment exposed to light, oxygen, and variable environmental conditions.
Cosmetics takes this biological heritage and brings it into the laboratory.
From Nori to skincare, the transition is therefore not just from the kitchen to cosmetics.
It is the transition from marine biology to advanced cosmetics.
And it is precisely in this meeting of nature, research, and technology that interest in PRODHYDERM® PORPHYRA arises.
Directly relevant topical studies
Bhatia, S., Kim, W.-K., Jeon, Y.-J., & Kim, S.-K. (2014). Protective effect of porphyra-334 on UVA-induced photoaging in human skin fibroblasts. Marine Drugs, 12(11), 6048–6064.
de la Coba, F., Aguilera, J., Figueroa, F. L., de Gálvez, M. V., & Herrera, E. (2009). Prevention of the ultraviolet effects on clinical and histopathological changes, as well as the heat shock protein-70 expression in mouse skin by topical application of algal UV-absorbing compounds. Journal of Dermatological Science, 55(2), 123-131.
Wang, L., et al. (2019). Protective effect of MAAs extracted from Porphyra tenera against UV irradiation-induced photoaging in mouse skin. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 129, 1076–1083.
Wang, L., et al. (2019). The protective effect of mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) from Porphyra yezoensis in a mouse model of UV irradiation-induced photoaging. Marine Drugs, 17(8), 474.
Mercurio, D. G., Wagemaker, T. A. L., Alves, V. M., Benevenuto, C. G., Gaspar, L. R., & Maia Campos, P. M. B. G. (2015). In vivo photoprotective effects of cosmetic formulations containing UV filters, vitamins, Ginkgo biloba and red algae extracts. Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B: Biology, 153, 121–126.
Mota, M. R., et al. (2019). UVA and UVB photoprotective capabilities of topical formulations containing mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) through different biological effective protection factors (BEPFs). Marine Drugs, 17(1), 31.
Díaz, M. R., et al. (2021). Cyanobacteria and red macroalgae as potential sources of antioxidants and UV radiation-absorbing compounds for cosmeceutical applications. Marine Drugs, 19(1), 25.
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