When it comes to skin renewal, the first things that generally come to mind are the most well-known exfoliating acids: glycolic, mandelic, lactic, and salicylic.
But there is another, decidedly more unique possibility.
A system of organic acids naturally present in grapes, concentrated and standardized to achieve controlled exfoliating activity.
This is the idea behind RENEGRAPE®, an active ingredient developed by Bionap from Sicilian white grapes.
And we are not simply talking about “grape extract.”
RENEGRAPE® is a peeling agent containing 38–42% of a pool of organic acids, consisting of citric, gluconic, lactic, malic, and tartaric acid. Bionap proposes it specifically to promote epidermal renewal, improve the appearance of wrinkles and dark spots, and contribute to the improvement of acne marks.
But the most interesting part comes when you look at the comparative studies.
It is not simply “grape”: it is a standardized system of organic acids
The INCI of the raw material is extremely simple:
Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Juice Extract
Behind this name, however, lies a fraction rich in organic acids.
RENEGRAPE® in fact contains 38–42% w/w of total organic acids, with a profile consisting of:
- tartaric acid
- malic acid
- citric acid
- lactic acid
- gluconic acid
It is precisely this combination that represents the functional heart of the active ingredient.
So there is a fundamental first distinction to be made.
RENEGRAPE® is not a single AHA.
It is a natural pool of different organic acids, obtained from Sicilian white grape and standardized to ensure a defined quantity of acids.
And this allows for an exfoliating profile that is different from that of a single isolated acid.
Why use multiple acids together?
Alpha-hydroxy acids are known above all for their ability to promote the detachment of superficial corneal cells and accelerate the renewal process of the epidermal layer.
But AHAs are not all the same.
Their chemical structure, concentration, pH, and formulation characteristics profoundly influence their final activity on the skin.
RENEGRAPE® leverages the simultaneous presence of different organic acids.
The goal is not simply to achieve aggressive exfoliation.
It is to achieve effective epidermal renewal while maintaining a good tolerability profile.
And it is precisely this balance between activity and tolerability that represents one of the most interesting aspects of the technology.
The most important effect: accelerating epidermal renewal
One of the most interesting data points associated with RENEGRAPE® concerns epidermal turnover.
The skin naturally eliminates superficial corneal cells through the desquamation process.
When this process becomes slower or irregular, the skin surface can appear rougher, duller, and uneven.
Dead cells can accumulate and make the following more evident:
- roughness;
- uneven texture;
- fine lines;
- superficial discolorations;
- dull complexion.
An effective exfoliant can intervene precisely in this process.
RENEGRAPE® has been studied specifically to verify its ability to accelerate epidermis renewal.
And the results are particularly interesting because they were also obtained through a direct comparison with glycolic acid and mandelic acid.
RENEGRAPE® versus glycolic and mandelic: what did the study show?
The study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science compared the exfoliating activity of RENEGRAPE® with that of glycolic acid and mandelic acid using a controlled experimental protocol.
In the test, the formulations were applied to skin areas previously treated with DHA to create a temporary coloration of the stratum corneum.
Why?
Because the coloration generated by DHA remains associated with the cells of the stratum corneum and can therefore be used as an indirect marker of the speed at which these cells are eliminated.
In other words:
the faster the coloration disappears, the faster the renewal of the stratum corneum has occurred.
Formulations containing glycolic acid, mandelic acid, and the pool of acids derived from grape provided by Bionap as RENEGRAPE® were compared.
The result was very interesting.
RENEGRAPE® showed a significant acceleration of skin turnover, with a renewal activity that in the test was situated close to that of the reference AHAs. Bionap's technical documentation reports an increase in the cell turnover acceleration parameter and a reduction in the time required to achieve complete renewal of the treated area.
So we are not just talking about a raw material that “contains acids.”
We have an active ingredient whose epidermal renewal effect has been effectively evaluated in vivo.
And what about tolerability?
Here RENEGRAPE® becomes even more interesting.
Because an effective peel does not necessarily have to be synonymous with severely irritated skin.
In the comparison with glycolic and mandelic acid, the study also evaluated the skin response after application.
RENEGRAPE® produced a mild and transient erythema, while the erythematous response observed with the other reference acids was greater in the experimental protocol.
Bionap's technical documentation also reports a lower photosensitizing potential compared to glycolic and mandelic acid in the model used in the study.
This is a particularly interesting piece of data.
It does not mean that RENEGRAPE® automatically makes any cosmetic product “non-photosensitizing.”
It means that under the experimental conditions of the study, the grape acid-based system showed a lower photosensitization response than the two comparison acids.
It is an important difference.
This is why it can be interesting as an alternative to classic AHAs
RENEGRAPE® does not necessarily try to imitate glycolic acid molecule for molecule.
Its strength is different.
It is a natural pool of organic acids, standardized and obtained from a plant source, which can provide effective exfoliating activity with an interesting tolerability profile.
Bionap's technical documentation in fact describes RENEGRAPE® as a peeling agent with a good balance between efficacy and tolerability.
This makes it particularly interesting for formulations dedicated to those who wish to renew the skin surface without necessarily resorting to high concentrations of a single AHA.
Smoother, more uniform, and brighter skin
The first visible result of exfoliation is often just this.
The texture changes.
When superficial corneal cells are eliminated more effectively, the skin surface can appear:
- smoother;
- more uniform;
- brighter;
- less rough;
- more regular to the touch.
This is one of the most immediate cosmetic effects associated with AHAs.
A more uniform skin surface also reflects light more regularly, contributing to that brightness effect that is often associated with exfoliating treatments.
This is why RENEGRAPE® can be particularly interesting in treatments intended for dull, rough skin or skin characterized by irregular texture.
Wrinkles: not just exfoliation
Bionap also indicates RENEGRAPE® for the reduction of the appearance of wrinkles.
The connection is easily understandable.
Skin with greater turnover and a more regular corneal surface can have a visually more uniform texture.
In addition, the continuous use of exfoliants can help improve the appearance of superficial fine lines.
However, it is important to distinguish this effect from that of a treatment that acts directly on the dermal processes responsible for deep wrinkles.
RENEGRAPE® works primarily on the renewal and quality of the skin surface.
And this is precisely its strong point.
Spots and discolorations: why exfoliation can help
RENEGRAPE® is also indicated by the manufacturer for the reduction of the appearance of age spots.
In this case, exfoliation represents one of the components of the cosmetic treatment of discolorations.
Promoting the turnover of the stratum corneum can help make the appearance of the skin surface more uniform and progressively improve the perception of superficial discolorations.
This does not mean that grape acids act as a depigmenting drug.
Their main role remains to promote epidermal renewal and improve the regularity of the skin surface.
And it is precisely for this reason that they can be combined in a cosmetic strategy with other active ingredients specifically oriented toward pigmentation.
And there is also an interest for acne-prone skin
Another application declared by Bionap is the improvement of acne marks.
Here too, the cosmetic mechanism is consistent with the exfoliating action.
Better removal of superficial corneal cells and greater turnover regularity can help improve the appearance of skin characterized by imperfections and irregular texture.
RENEGRAPE® is in fact also classified as an ingredient useful for improving acne marks and promoting skin renewal processes.
Naturally, this is not equivalent to calling it a pharmacological acne treatment.
We are talking about the cosmetic improvement of the appearance of acne-prone skin and its marks.
A particular advantage: sustainable origin
There is another aspect that makes RENEGRAPE® interesting.
Bionap also develops its ingredients starting from the valorization of by-products of the Mediterranean agri-food chain.
RENEGRAPE® was in fact born from the valorization of the raw material derived from grape processing.
The result is a concrete example of cosmetic upcycling: a resource from the agri-food chain is transformed into a high-added-value raw material for cosmetics.
The active ingredient is also indicated by Bionap as 100% of natural origin according to ISO 16128-1, vegan and COSMOS/ECOCERT approved.
The official COSMOS database also lists Bionap's RENEGRAPE among the approved raw materials, with the INCI Vitis Vinifera Juice Extract.
So the sustainable component is not just a marketing story added to the raw material.
It is part of the very design of the ingredient.
It is not necessary to call it “natural glycolic”
And this is a distinction that is worth making.
RENEGRAPE® does not simply contain “natural glycolic acid.”
The current official Bionap composition indicates a pool of citric, gluconic, lactic, malic, and tartaric acid.
The comparison with glycolic arises from comparative studies on exfoliating activity and tolerability, not from the fact that RENEGRAPE® is a plant-based version of glycolic acid.
And this is precisely what makes the ingredient more interesting.
It does not have to be a copy of glycolic acid.
It is a different exfoliating technology, based on a natural and standardized mixture of organic grape acids.
How much of it is used?
Bionap's current technical documentation indicates a recommended usage concentration of 2–10%.
This data is also important to understand why one should not confuse the percentage of the commercial active ingredient with the total percentage of AHA present in the finished cosmetic product.
RENEGRAPE® already contains 38–42% organic acids.
So a cosmetic containing, for example, 5% RENEGRAPE® does not contain 5% organic acids: it contains the raw material RENEGRAPE® at 5%, within which a substantial part is represented by the pool of acids.
It is a fundamental distinction when reading formulas.
And the pH?
As with any AHA-based system, the behavior of the acids depends heavily on the final formulation, including the pH.
It is therefore incorrect to establish that “RENEGRAPE only works at pH 3.5–4.5” as a universal rule for every cosmetic product.
Bionap's historical technical documentation indicates a formulation range of pH 3–6.5, while the conditions of the comparative study were specifically controlled and do not automatically represent every commercial product.
This is another reason why the efficacy of an ingredient cannot be deduced from its mere presence in the INCI.
The formula in its entirety counts.
RENEGRAPE®: what can it really offer the skin?
Putting together the manufacturer's documentation and the comparative study data, the cosmetic profile of RENEGRAPE® becomes much more interesting than a simple “grape extract.”
It is a system designed to:
promote epidermal renewal;
promote effective exfoliation;
improve the texture and smoothness of the skin;
increase the brightness of the complexion;
reduce the appearance of wrinkles;
improve the appearance of age spots;
contribute to the improvement of acne marks;
and do so with an interesting tolerability profile compared to the AHAs used in the available study.
And above all, these are not simply theoretical benefits attributed to grapes.
For RENEGRAPE®, there is a comparative clinical evaluation that directly examined its effect on epidermal turnover and its tolerability compared to glycolic and mandelic acid.
From the vineyard to skincare
RENEGRAPE® therefore represents a very interesting example of how modern cosmetics can take an apparently simple raw material and transform it through standardization, composition control, and cosmetological research.
It is not the simple “power of the grape.”
It is a standardized pool of organic acids obtained from Sicilian white grapes.
It is not simply “a natural AHA.”
It is a combination of tartaric, malic, citric, lactic, and gluconic acid.
And it is not just an exfoliating ingredient.
The available data positions it as a technology intended for epidermal renewal, texture improvement, wrinkles, dark spots, and acne marks, with a particularly interesting tolerability profile in the experimental comparison with glycolic and mandelic acid.
This is the true interest of RENEGRAPE®:
transforming a natural pool of grape acids into a standardized cosmetic tool to accelerate skin renewal, progressively improving its uniformity, brightness, and texture.
And when you look beyond the simple word “grape” in the INCI, you discover that behind that apparently mundane item is a much more sophisticated technology.
Bibliography
Bionap. RENEGRAPE™ – Skin peeling agent derived from Sicilian white grapes.
Rizza, L., Frasca, G., Bonina, C., & Puglia, C. (2010). Comparative in vivo study of the efficacy and tolerance of exfoliating agents using reflectance spectrophotometric methods. Journal of cosmetic science, 61(3), 247–258.
Bionap. RENEGRAPE® Technical documentation relating to clinical studies on epidermal turnover, erythema, and photosensitization.
COSMOS. Official database of approved raw materials: RENEGRAPE®, Bionap, Vitis Vinifera Juice Extract.
0 comments